Tag Archives: Luzon

The Ilongot Tribe Of Headhunters

Deep in the rolling mountains of Northern Luzon, far from the hustle and bustle of Metro Manila exists the beautiful landscapes of the Cagayan Valley. The Valley – mostly consisting of the region between the Cordilleras and the Sierra Madre mountain ranges – is home to some of The Philippines most iconic landmarks.

Apart from its beautiful scenic views, the Cagayan Valley is also known to house a peculiar tribe of people whose cultural practices have drawn the attention of anthropologists from around the world.

To address the culturally unique elements of this tribe I will first take you through the mythology subscribed to by these people – the Bugkalut or the more common expression used by tribal outsiders, the Ilongot people.

Creation mythology of the Ilongot people

Those familiar with the Abrahamic religions will know the story of Cain and Abel; found in the Bible Book of Genesis. Well, the Ilongot people follow a creation myth very similar to the story of Cain and Abel.

According to the Ilongot people, the creators of the universe are two quarrelling brothers who go by the name Cain and Abel. Abel was a shepherd who is known to have been looked upon favourably due to his propensity to self-sacrifice. While Cain, who worked in agriculture was known for his inclination towards chaos. The Ilongot people identify those who live down in the lowlands as following the spirit of Abel.

The Ilongot people identify those who live down in the lowlands as following the spirit of Abel. They view them as superior as well as having had learned to work with the domesticated animals such as Carabao. Interestingly, the Ilongot see themselves as following in the footsteps of Cain and his spirit of chaos.

This is because the Ilongot have long been known as a tribe of headhunters. Like Cain, in moments of grief or intense emotion, the Ilongot have an inclination towards murder.



Manifestation of liget in the Ilongot tribe

After the loss of a loved one, a rage of bereavement arises in the men of the Ilongot. While under this condition – identified by the tribe as liget – the men of the Ilongot would hunt and kill other men.

This intense emotional state labelled as liget became the motivation for many cultural practices and “rites of passage” for the tribe. The spirit of liget has been described as a sense of anger, heat, energy, and envy.

This emotional state which often leads to headhunting manifests itself in many situations. It is used in times of warfare, elders harness the power of the emotional state in such situations. An unsettled feud or the death of a loved one may also lead to headhunting.

It is also a requirement that a young man must kill before he can marry. Once the headhunters return, a pig is sacrificed as well as there typically is a celebration amongst the whole tribe.

In modern times, there has been a crackdown on the headhunting carried out by the tribe. Protestant missionaries then began to make contact with the tribe; before that time, the Ilongot people had no regular contact with the major world religions.

Many members of the tribe began to practice Christianity, the intense emotional states of the tribal members began to subside. The members were no longer reaching those previously intense emotional states of linget. This meant the tribes people no longer resort to murder and headhunting as an expression of this emotional state.

Paoay Church, The Beautiful Heritage Site Of Northern Luzon

To say The Philippines has some amazing sites to see is certainly an understatement. I remember back shortly before I began travelling the country I would sit back and browse through hundreds of travel sites. I would be searching through the seemingly endless amount of pictures of all the treasures found in this country.

One distinct site which seemed always to arise was a towering structure covered in plant growth; which looked like it would be at home in a Lord of The Rings movie. This structure is the Paoay Church, one of only a handful of baroque inspired churches built during the Spanish reign of the country.

The construction of this pyramid-like structure dates all the way back to 1694 when work began on the site. The project went on for almost two decades but resulted in one of the countries treasures which remains standing centuries later.

Paoay church was intentionally built to last, with 24 buttresses installed to reinforce the coral block and baked brick structure. Even the bell tower was moved from the traditional position of being attached to the church. This was done to decrease the chance of debris from the tower damaging the primary structure in the event of an earthquake.

The church has a been a part of many culturally significant moments throughout its history. Despite it being a home for the countries primary religion, Roman Catholicism it was also used as a base for the Katipuneros during the time of Philippine revolt against the Spanish. It was also used to house guerrilla fighters who were facing the Japanese invasion during World War II.

The cultural significance of this site was recognised when it was named a UNESCO world heritage site. It is now one of the prominent tourist attractions found in Northern Luzon. Although a trip to the site from Manila may take as long as 10 hours, this is only one of many breathtaking attractions located in Northern Luzon.

Flights to the province of Ilocos Norte are available. But if you have the time it is recommended to go by bus or car to see all the sites along the way. Visit the mountain city of Baguio, see the beaches of LA Union or visit the Spanish themed Vigan city.