History

The mystery of Pre-Colonial Philippines

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When someone talks about the history of the Philippines, the conversation generally begins with the arrival of the Spanish. Few people recognise the nation even existed, let alone had a system of governance and was even quite prosperous before the coming of the Spanish and other colonizers.

The land had a rich culture with a people who had established themselves in rather unbelievable ways. Pre-colonial Philippines has been quoted by some historians and other rather influential people as being one of the most progressive societies to ever exist to this moment.

A brief look at the history books reveals a land where there was a very rich culture of agriculturalists, innovators and empowerment beyond comparison. So, what was the culture like before the Spanish colonized this land? It is vital to note that the name Philippine is attributed to Dominican Priest and Spanish explorer Ruy Lopez de Villalobos who named the Philippine Islands after Phillip II in 1543. The name was automatically adopted henceforth.

This piece is, however, about the rich culture the country had before colonization. Here are a few points to note, therefore, about pre-colonial Philippines.

Their women were very powerful

A look at the pre-colonial Philippines reveals a society where there was a lot of equality when it comes to gender. Women were just as powerful as men in terms of family hierarchy, societal placement, leadership and even professionalism. The women had a lot of say on how the family unit operated from making key decisions such as the number of kids to have and their spacing. They also solely decided the names of their kids.

In certain instances, women were even thoroughly revered by men because of the power and influence they yielded. It was a common sign to see men walking behind women as a show of respect. As well, just like men, women owned and inherited property, had equal opportunity in almost all professions and craftsmanship and also led their respective territories.



They had good foreign relations especially with the Chinese

Pre-colonial Philippines generally had very good relations with foreigners. They traded with the Arabs, Chinese and even Indians. History reveals that the trading expertise of native Filipinos gave them a name halfway across the world. Their trade was, however, not outstanding with the Chinese. People could consider them trade buddies because of the level of trust between the two.

It is said that the honesty of the Philippines greatly surprised the Chinese and improved their trade relations. So much was the trust that at times the Chinese would leave their goods at the ocean shore and come back for their traded items late on whereupon the Filipinos would surrender the returns without question. This made the Chinese the greatest trade partners of the ancient Philippines.

Their tribes were either highlanders or lowlanders.

The indigenous Filipinos include several tribes that existed way before the coming of the modern Filipinos. These tribes have been traced almost 50,000 years back according to archaeological evidence. It is important to notice that there are 2 major subdivisions for the 134 indigenous Filipino tribes. They were either highlanders or lowlanders. After colonization, the lowlanders were majorly influenced in terms of culture erosion by the colonizers. The highlanders, however, maintained the majority of their culture even during and after colonization. This was majorly influenced by the inaccessibility of the highlands that discouraged the colonizers.

The majority of the indigenous people of northern Philippines are referred to as Igorot while those found within the mainland Mindanao are called the Lumad. The tribes co-existed peacefully and engaged in many activities amongst themselves which strengthened their relations as well as that of foreigners. The tribes and sub-tribes also intermarried and visited each other to ensure they correlated well.

Their differences were more of a strength than a weakness which helped them in improving their general operations and life as a whole. While there were 134 ethnic groups in the Philippines, 135 languages still exist till now and one is known by the majority, if not all of the Philippines population. This common language is Tagalog and is currently used as the national language.

Several professions already existed

The ancient Filipinos were a predominantly an agricultural society with large tracts of land having both animal and crops. This made them self-sufficient in terms of food. Do not, however, be fooled that they were only agriculturalists. They had very many other professions that saw them create a well-rounded society. These professions included mining, seafaring, hunting, weapon making, smithing and even textiles.

This made them produce a lot of items that they could use and trade in. This as well made them one of the richest and most-skilled pre-colonial settlements known to man. Many foreigners came to settle within the Filipinos because of their skill-set and their friendly and honest lifestyle.

Islam was the major religion

Islam is said to be the oldest single religion to ever exist in the pre-colonial Philippines. This is attributed to the trade relations between the ancient Filipinos and Muslim traders from The Persian Gulf and other surrounding areas. This happened in the 14th century and quickly spread to the rest of Philippines with a major concentration of Muslims
in the southern region of Mindanao.

The greatest warriors in terms of fighting against the west and general colonization were the Muslims with most of their clerics such as Rajah Sulayman who was the Muslim Rajah (leader) of Maynila, staging fights that have gone down history as some of the longest resistance against colonizers. Islam is currently a religion practised by 6% of the Philippine population in the modern day, with Christianity, Buddhism and Hinduism taking a big chunk of the current Philippine population.

It is evident that the average ancient pre-colonial Filipino was a person with a strong and rich culture, well-endowed intellect with a high level of professionalism and skill. With such large tracts of well-endowed land, an honest society with equality, religion, and diversity that was embraced rather than shunned, one could argue that life must have been better during pre-colonial time than now, but that is just an issue up for debate.

Culture

Mambabatok: Tattoo tradition in the Philippines

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Throughout history, women have relied on various techniques to amplify their beauty. Before the age of lipsticks and eyeliners, there were ancient beauty techniques women would adopt in pursuit of boosting their allure.

In the Philippines, there is a tradition that has been practised by women for many years. This is popularly referred to as “batok” meaning the art of tattooing your body with tribal designs using bamboo stick and thorn.

Batok is believed to have been practised for about one thousand years. Usually, Filipino women who have reached the right age are allowed to get tribal designs to enhance their beauty. But this art of beauty is not just left to women. Men that have proved themselves worthy enough to get the mark of beauty are allowed to participate in the mambabatok tradition.

Hence, you should not be surprised to find that the majority of men with these ancient tattoos are Kalinga warriors or headhunters. Kalinga warriors have marks and traditional designs that represent the battles they fought with their tribe’s enemies.

While batok is used to enhance the beauty of women, men that choose to decorate their bodies with these ancient marks are seen as brave and courageous people in the society. Therefore, a Kalinga warrior who is heavily marked with these ancient tattoos commands a lot of respect and could make his enemies tremble in fear.

The people who put these ancient marks on the bodies of men and women are referred to as mambabatoks. The main challenge facing this ancient practice is that the original mambabatoks have died. That leaves the thousand-year-old practice in danger of being lost forever.

The legendary Mambabatok from Kalinga

The good news is that there is one mambabatok who is still alive and despite her old age, she is still practising this ancient art. Meet the legendary mambabatok from Kalinga, Apo Whang-Od.  For more than seventy years, Apo Whang-Od has been tattooing women and headhunters in the region of Kalinga. This elderly woman was born in 1918 and is considered to be the last mambabatok still living.

Whang-Od has tribal tattoos covering her chest and arms and it is her father who taught her this ancient art of tattooing the body with ink and thorns. While she was still young, Whang-Od used to tattoo her friends, including herself, for practice. However, some tattoos on her body were done by her late father.

After the death of her husband following a logging accident, Apo Whang-Od dedicated her life to practice batok. Almost hitting the centurion mark, the remaining mambabatok of Kalinga is still doing what she does best. Her days start with a morning routine of taking coffee before she goes outside to feed her chickens. Later, you will find her seated outside her home tattooing locals, visitors and even foreigners.

Whang-Od’s ancient marks feature Baybayinand tribal patterns. Her tattoos cover the arms, back and chest and most of them symbolize bravery and nature like ferns, stars, steps, rice bundles, centipedes and python scales.

Receiving a tattoo from Whang-Od

Before she tattoos her guests, Whang-Od’s begins by removing her tattooing tools, which includes a bamboo stick, orange thorn needle, a short stick, and a coconut mixing bowl. Afterwards, she gets soot from her fireplace, which she mixes with water to create ink inside the coconut mixing bowl. She then dips a blade of grass into the ink to create a pattern on your skin.

After drawing the pattern, Apo Whang-Od begins her tattooing session. She dips the orange thorn needle into the ink and follows the pattern she drew before with a blade of grass. This is done by using a short bamboo stick with the orange thorn needle.

She keeps following the same pattern until the whole ink is absorbed from the needle. In case the tattoo design is small, it might take her half an hour to complete. However, if the tattoo design is large, it might take between two and three hours to complete.

It is painful to prick your skin using a thorn so that you can get an ancient tattoo. This is because the thorn is not smooth like a needle, which adds to the amount of pain you will experience. However, the overall benefit of beauty outweighs the pain you will experience when you get a tattoo from mambabatok.

Click here to learn more about the vibrant culture of the Philippines.

Culture

First exposure to the infamous Metro Manila traffic

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Traffic.

For residents of Manila, this is a topic discussed as frequently as the weather.

This is because Manila has some of the worst levels of traffic on earth. With the growth of the middle class has also come the growth of the number of cars on the road. Unfortunately, planning and development within the city haven’t seen the same growth.

Manila has gotten to a point where It isn’t uncommon to hear of people renting dorms near their work just to avoid the long commute times. While some celebrities have gone as far as taking helicopters to work to avoid being stuck in traffic for long periods of time.

I vividly remember my first time visiting the city. We were going out one evening as we were meeting friends in Makati. At that point, I didn’t know the city well, so I sat back and let everyone else make the plans.

It wasn’t long before we were in a taxi on the way to Makati. We were all excited about going out to see Manilas nightlife for the first time. We were all in the back of the taxi – loudly talking over each other.

Now the taxi had taken us onto a highway, but I hadn’t been paying attention. Later, I felt like we had been moving really slowly for a while. After checking the time, I realised we had been in the back of the taxi for 2 hours!

It turns out we had left at the same time most of Manilas residents return home from school or work. The peak hour traffic was a nightmare, thankfully I had my friends there to keep me company.

After what seemed like a lifetime, we finally made it to our destination. In the end, the commute was almost 3 hours! Which adds up to quite a large bill for the taxi. But the rest of the evening was very memorable, to say the least…

The following days’ Revelations

Understandably, I woke up late into the following day. At this point, I still knew nothing about Manila. We had travelled around a fair bit the previous evening but because it was nighttime nothing really stood out.

Once I had dragged myself out of bed, I went into the kitchen where everyone had gathered. The plan was to begin our day at Makati as my brother needed to visit an embassy there, we would then go and enjoy more recreational activities after.

We all walked together out onto the main street to find ourselves a taxi. At this point, I was ready for another long day stuck in the back of a car. Which I didn’t really mind as I was still new to Manila, so I would just sit in the back staring out the window at everything.

Now, where we were heading was roughly a few minutes walk away from where we were the previous evening. So I had it set in my mind that we were going to be stuck on the road for a long time.

But, no more than 20 minutes after getting into the taxi, we had arrived! That’s when it hit me – the previous evening we had spent 3 hours on a route which would normally take no more than 20 minutes within normal traffic conditions.

I could not believe it, if I had realised how close it was the previous evening I would have been a lot more frustrated than what I was. So it was probably better to come to the realisation later on.

Moral of the story – If you want to travel around Manila, pick your commute times wisely, or maybe just walk.

Destination

BenCab Museum: A haven of inspiration

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Baguio remains one of my favourite holiday destinations in the Philippines. Its unique climate and scenic mountainous terrains are a welcome change from the daily hustle and bustle I experience in Manila and Cebu.

The unique climate isn’t all Baguio has to offer. A short drive from the city centre lies the private Museum of Benedicto Reyes Cabrera, more commonly known as the BenCab Museum. This is a gallery that showcases the rich culture of the region through its art, food, and its integration with the natural surroundings.

It not only showcases the work of the internationally renowned Filipino artist BenCab. It also showcases the work of other prominent Filipino artists such as Leonard Aguinaldo and Arturo Sanchez Jr.

On the morning of my visit, I took a taxi directly from my hotel to the Museum. I was taken on a short drive through the tight, winding more isolated streets of Baguio.

I was almost tempted to pull the taxi over several times on the way there. On the same street as the Museum, you will find one of the centres of the cities woodworking industry. Their workshops are full of beautiful handmade furniture plus many other smaller sculptures, ornaments, and other household goods.

Arriving at the BenCab Museum

After a short drive down the secluded Asin road, you suddenly come across the BenCab Museum. I was first taken aback by how the modern architecture of the four-story Museum integrates with its surroundings almost seamlessly.

The interior of the building was also just as impressive. The modern design compliments the mix of contemporary art and antique wooden carvings found throughout the Museum. The space inside is well-lit thanks to the large panes of glass used throughout the building

The galleries themselves are full of hard-hitting engaging works. With a mix of contemporary almost surreal paintings and collages, mixed with spiritual, ritualistic artefacts from the region’s indigenous ancestors. Filipino art and crafts have been seamlessly mixed with thought-provoking contemporary works to create an engaging experience for visitors.  It’s hard not to get lost in the Museum.

The architecture of the gallery showcases the contemporary theme of the gallery intertwined with the history, and beauty of the region.



BenCab Museum: Eco-ambassadors

After leaving the gallery you can check-in at the cafe which offers quality food made on the premises. The cafe overlooks the breathtaking exterior of the estate.

The Museum, typically buried in a soft mist is set upon terraces that houses a makeshift farm situated next to a beautiful garden and pond. Towards the rear of the property is an Eco-walk surrounded by a river, weaving its way through the property.

The modern features of the property have been perfectly integrated with the natural landscapes surrounding the property. The terraced gardens also pay homage to the terraced farms found throughout the region.

The BenCab Museum is truly a fascinating place. Mr BenCab has achieved his goal of spreading the appreciation of the countries art scene by bringing the arts to the people. His establishment also offers a renewed appreciation of our natural surroundings.

BenCab Museum Details

As mentioned, I had taken a taxi to the Museum. The driver had suggested that he waits for me outside the Museum, but I mistakenly refused. I underestimated how difficult it would be to get a taxi back to my hotel as the Museum is in quite a remote area. I had also gone during a busy time so there was already a long line of people waiting for a taxi.

In the end, I managed to get a ride on the jeepney which follows Asin road. Jeepneys passing by the Museum are fairly irregular so if you are on a tight schedule I recommend you pay special attention to your transport from the premises.

The Museum is open Tuesday – Sunday 9:00 am to 6:00 pm (last entry is at 5:30 pm). BenCab Museum is closed on Christmas & New Year’s Day.

The standard entry fee is P100, students and senior citizens pay P80 if a valid I.D. is presented. The Museum is able to offer special rates for group bookings made ahead of time. You can reach the Museum via a jeepney, the Baguio terminal is found near the Baguio market A taxi ride is also a low-cost means to get here due to its close proximity to the city centre. It may be worth arranging a pickup time with the driver, as it may be hard to find another taxi when you leave.

For more information, you may call (+63 74) 442.7165, email bencabartfoundation@gmail.com, or visit bencabmuseum.org.

Food

Coconuts: The Philippines most versatile resource?

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It’s unusual to say this but until a few months ago, I had never eaten a coconut before.

Actually, more specifically, I had never eaten a fresh coconut before.

During my time in Australia, I had enjoyed the old dried out, or “mature” coconuts exported from countries like the Philippines. I quickly found out it is nowhere near the same as a coconut fresh from the tree.

Unsurprisingly coconuts are one of the Philippines biggest exports. You can literally find them everywhere, the first time I had one was from a man selling them on a beach in Palawan. It was hard to turn down an offer of two whole coconuts for just P50.

Once I tried it, I was hooked. It was hard to believe that something that tasty was found on palms all across the country.

It became clear to me that the coconut is deeply ingrained in the Philippines culture. Many go as far as referring to it as the “tree of life”. It has satisfied the daily needs of countless Filipinos. It’s often used as a source of food, oil, dyes as well as being used to construct homes, furniture and other small household items.

Harvesting the versatile coconut

When travelling the country I noticed that a lot of the coconut palms have little wedges cut out all the way up their trunks. This aids in helping those harvesting coconuts once they are ready.

Within what seems like seconds a person can climb to the canopy of a palm with a bolo knife (large traditional knife in the Philippines) They will then cut down the fruit of the palm which is ready for consumption.

Many medium scales farms are found across the country. These are run by some of the poorest members of the Philippine society, who will hire local – usually underpaid – labour to assist in their production efforts.

Farming coconuts is not an easy life. Despite the consistent annual growth, farmers still battle to get by.

In 2013 the country was struck by the devastating typhoon Yolanda. About 44 million palms were wiped out or damaged during the typhoon. This would impact the livelihoods of over 1 millions farmers, some who had a debt owing on their farm which they still needed to find a means to pay.

Out of the devastation came many lessons for farmers. Many have now moved onto tapping into alternative sources of income. Many farmers now grow smaller short-term cash crops like corn and other vegetables to better utilise the land around the coconut palms.



International coconut addiction: The Philippines fight to meet demand

At one point in time, the international coconut market was dominated by South American countries like Brazil. The global dominant source has now shifted to Asia. 90% of the world’s coconuts are now sourced from Asia, with many countries reliant on those exports as a vital source of income.

Vanuatu’s national income is highly reliant on the coconut industry with 50% of it coming from the export of coconuts. Whereas the Philippines export of mostly desiccated coconut products makes up 1.5% of its national income. This is still a significant figure considering the Philippines exports more than $1 billion worth of coconuts to the United States alone.

Another point to consider is demand for coconut products has only been going up. In the last decade, international demand has grown a staggering 500%. This is due to the boom in coconut based products such as soaps, health products and coconut water.

The Philippines has been looking to the international community for help as it is struggling to keep up with the massive demand. They have been searching for methods to both streamline production as well as curtail some of the demand. This demand for efficiency will have a flow-on effect in providing an example for other countries in the region to follow.

Cocofest: Celebrating the Philippines tree of life

The coconut has really earnt its reputation as being a  miracle plant.

The water and oil have a myriad of different benefits for your health. As well as the plant itself being a great source of building supplies. This is why the people of San Pablo City begun celebrating Cocofest each year. This is a show of appreciation for the crop that sustains so many peoples lives within the Philippines.

The Philippines still remains one of the top producers in the world. With many Filipinos remaining determined to help maintain that position. There is still a lot of research being undertaken to help the Philippines reach its full potential in regards to coconut production.

This will ensure the industry continues to flourish, as well as local communities beginning to see some economic relief as a result of their hard work. This research also helps the Philippines to continually export high-quality coconut products to the international market.

Food

Coffee comeback: Coffee industry growth in the Philippines

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When thinking of the worlds coffee heavyweights, countries like Brazil, Ethiopia, and Columbia come to mind. We rarely see the Philippines amongst those at the leading edge of the coffee industry.

It may seem unusual that neighbouring countries to the Philippines – Indonesia and Vietnam etc. – are regularly amongst the top coffee producers in the world; yet, the Philippines is rarely mentioned.

This was not always the case:

Coffee was first introduced into the country back in 1749, by a Franciscan friar. It quickly grew into a thriving industry. The Philippines continued to be a prominent coffee producer until the end of the nineteenth century, towards the end of the Spanish colonisation.

Around this time the countries crops were decimated by coffee rust disease. Trade began to taper off due to a lack of government support and a decline in the international coffee prices. This caused farmers to abandon their endeavours and move on to growing different crops.

Though, this only lasted until the middle of the twentieth century when the popularity of instant coffee took off.

Today, the Philippines coffee industry is continuing to blossom. The current high prices and an increase in local and international coffee chains have pushed farmers to refocus on producing coffee crops.

International chains such as Starbucks have spread across Manila as well as smaller local cafes which continue to gain a strong presence across the country. All in a bid to tap into the countries expanding coffee industry.

Tourism potential in coffee plantations

Many coffee experts have spoken out about the possibility for coffee farmers to welcome tourists to their estates. Ecotourism already draws a significant flow of international guests to the country. It’s up to farmers to take advantage of the industry by making their plantations more tourist friendly.

Catering plantations to the needs of tourists will provide alternative revenue sources to many farmers. This will address the issue of having a limited income, which many farmers are now facing.

The coffee industry employees approximately 200,000 Filipinos. Opening the plantations up to tourism will have a flow-on effect in providing many other employment opportunities in the local communities.

Coffee tourism also has the potential to strengthen local economies. As tourists enter a community, many other related businesses will see revenue growth.

Kapeng Tagalog: Arabica coffee in the Philippines

Arabica coffee is the most consumed coffee in the world. Though only 5% of the coffee produced in the Philippines is the high-grade Arabica coffee.

Although the coffee is known as Arabica, in the Philippines it is often referred to as Kapeng Tagalog.

Arabica is mostly grown in high altitude areas. So, you will find it in provinces such as Benguet, Sagada, Ifugao and Mt. Matutum. With the different locations comes a signature taste to the coffee.

For example, coffee from the infamous Cordillera region has an acidic, sweet taste. Whereas, the coffee from Mindanao has a bittersweet flavour with a floral aroma



Robusta: Back to basics

Most of the coffee grown in the Philippines is the Robusta variety. The crop is easy to maintain and provides a higher yield; it is subsequently a highly commercialised variety. Due to these positive factors, 85% of the coffee grown in the country is Robusta.

Much of this harvest is the sold on to Nestle who use it to make their iconic instant coffee varieties seen in supermarkets and Sari-Sari stores across the country.

Unlike Arabica, Robusta coffee thrives on lowlands. You can find plantations located across regions such as Bukidnon, Misamis Oriental, Sultan Kudarat, Bataan, Bohol, Cebu, Compostela Valley and Palawan amongst others.

Robusta – although seen as a low-grade coffee – has slowly begun to raise its profile to that of Arabica and other quality coffees. The Robusta is known for its sharp flavour and high caffeine content. It is often more bitter than Arabica due to its pyrazine content.

Kapeng Barako the full-bodied Liberica

The Liberica is much rarer than the other coffee varieties with only 3% of the Philippines coffee production being of the Liberica variety. The UN Food and Agriculture Organisation recognises the rarity of the species on the world stage. They have estimated that internationally, less than 2% of the commercially produced coffee is Liberica.

In the Philippines, you will often hear Liberica referred to as Kapeng Barako. The term “Barako” is used to refer to the masculine qualities of a male; it is used to emphasise the strong signature taste of the coffee.

The coffee originated in Liberia, West Africa. It was then brought to the Philippines with the original plantations being set up by the Spaniards in Lipa during the colonial era.

Lipa is still one of the countries prime locations when it comes to Liberica coffee. The high altitude coupled with the excellent climate and soil sets the coffee from Lipa apart from other Liberica varieties.

Due to quantities of Liberica coming from Batangas, most coffee in the province is referred to as Barako. The majority of the rare, exotic coffee is found in Lipa as well as other high altitude areas within the region.

The fruity flavours of Excelsa

Excelsa is often confused for Liberica or Robusta. Although Excelsa does have some distinct qualities which set it apart from the other coffee varieties.

It is often pointed out that Excelsa has a distinctly sweet, fruity flavour. Some also note that the coffees aroma is a lot more apparent than its taste. The characteristics of the coffee are often compared to foods like jackfruit.

Excelsa is a little more prominent than Liberica with 7% of the Philippines coffee production being that of Excelsa. It is often more favoured due to its drought-resistant qualities.

Like Liberica, Excelsa coffee can be found in Batangas and Quezon; plantations have also been set up in Sorsogon.

Cordilleras Civet Coffee

The Philippines Civet coffee or Kape Alamid is harvested in the fertile ground of the Siera Madre Mountains in the Cordillera region of Northern Luzon.

The name Kape Alamid hints at the distinct characteristics of this coffees production method which sets it apart from the rest.

“Alamid” refers to the Palm Civet (Paradoxurus Hermaphroditus philippinensis). A Civet is a small animal related to the mongoose. They are viewed as pests in the Philippines, often hunted for their meat.

The coffee production begins with the Alamids. The animals are attracted to quality berries. They will use smell to find the ripest, finest berries to pick.

They will then fill themselves up with these berries, but they will later excrete them as the Alamids are unable to digest these berries.

As the berries pass through the Alamid, the stomach acids and digestive enzymes affect the chemical structure of the coffee bean. It is this digestive process which gives civet coffee its distinct taste. The fermentation of the bean as it passes through the civet’s digestive system sets civet coffee apart from the rest.

History

Moulding skulls: The ancient practice of skull binding in the Philippines

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I’m sure we have all seen those iconic National Geographic photos featuring different tribes from around the world. Many of those images being of isolated tribes still engaging in unusual practices passed down by their ancestors.

It is common to see pictures of African and Amazonian tribes who still engage in the practice of lip stretching. You can often see photos of the women from the mountainous regions of Burma and Thailand who still engage in the practice of placing brass coils around their necks. This pushes their shoulders and collar bones down to give the appearance of a longer neck.

Then we have the Philippines.

Skull moulding in the Philippines

Before the Spanish occupation of the Philippines, the Visayans (Natives of the Philippines southern region) practised skull moulding to enhance beauty.

This cranial deformation, also known as head flattening or binding was a form of early body modification in the Philippines. This was performed by intentionally distorting the normal growth of a child’s skull by applying pressure to particular areas.

The procedure was only performed on children as their skulls were still soft, the same process performed on adults would only damage the skull.

The early Visayans thought of broad faces, receding foreheads and flat noses as being attractive. So, the head binding was a means of reaching these local standards of beauty.

The Visayan skull moulding was carried out using a tangad. This is a set of thin, comb-like rods bound to the babies forehead. The tangad hinders the forward growth of the babies skull. The skull is, therefore, directed backwards meaning they grew higher at the rear.

As the Spanish influence spread across the country these indigenous concepts of beauty moved aside as locals favoured the European beauty standards which came with the Spanish culture.

Archaeological excavations in the Visayas have helped bring to light the popularity of skull moulding. Burial sites in Cebu, Samar and Bohol amongst others have produced dozens of skulls showing signs of skull moulding.

Culture

Hilot: Science or Superstition?

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“A man too busy to take care of his health is like a mechanic too busy to take care of his tools.” – Spanish proverb.    

 We’ve all been there before:

You wake up early in the morning feeling like your head is about to explode – this is usually coupled with the stuffiness of nasal congestion and that burning feeling in the back of your throat.

In western nations, the next step in this scenario would be to visit the GPs office. They will direct you towards the best way to treat your symptoms and how to nurture your body through the recovery process.

This is the modus operandi most of us follow. This is also a service which many of us – especially those living in the west –  seem to take for granted.

Modern medicine: Treatment of illness in the Philippines

In many Asian nations, the tradition of visiting a doctor is not as common as some may think. Deciding to see a doctor means making sacrifices in other areas of your life. This could mean families are having to go as far as sacrificing food to care for a sick family member.

Modern medicine in the Philippines – although widely available in major cities such as Manila and Cebu – has yet to take hold in many of the provinces. Despite this, strong demand for the services of medical practitioners still exists across the country.

This has lead to many citizens turning to the countries traditional medical practices, a form of folk medicine. With the rise of alternative medical treatment and interest in traditional medicine, has also come an increase in the popularity of folk medicine.

In early Filipino communities, the “Manghihilot” was the primary caregiver. These Hilot specialists (pronounced HEE-lot) were not formally trained. They were usually elderly members of the community who had received instruction and guidance from their relatives. They are then expected to pass the knowledge on to the next generation.

Now the practice of Hilot is deeply ingrained into the culture of the country. It was practised by Filipinos even long before the Spaniards occupied the land. Before doctors, there were albularyos and manghihilots, relied upon to treat broken bones, attending to childbirth, and preparing herbal concoctions to treat ailments present in their communities.

Hilot massage and the summoning of divine power

Hilot contains some interesting practices often not seen within conventional medicine. In modern times it is known for its use of massage as a form of diagnosis and treatment of patients. Before beginning treatment, the manghihilot will call upon the divine power within your surroundings to provide the energy needed for healing.

The manghihilot will then carry out the massage while frequently using various herbs, medicinal plants, and banana leaves to assist in identifying areas of energy imbalance. The goal of the treatment is to call into action the clients powers of self-healing as well as restoring harmony and balance to their body.

Here are a few interesting facts about hilot you probably did not know:

1. It is one of the oldest forms of healing in the Philippines

Before the introduction of modern medicine in the Philippines, hilot was the primary form of healing, and it served people for very many years. It then went dormant for a while as people turned to western medicine until its sudden resurgence.

Now, hundreds of spas and traditional healers are practicing the art even beyond the borders of Philippines. Its success is attributed to the holistic approach to the healing process where wellness of body, mind and spirit is ensured.

2. The practitioners (manghihilots) have no medical training

Yes, you read it right. These particular healers referred to as manghihilots have never attended medical school. These practitioners understand the body often through years of apprenticeship. Ailments that are often easily treatable using this particular form of treatment involve musculoskeletal disorders.

The manghihilots, therefore, employ their understanding of the human body to massage as well as employ chiropractic-like manoeuvres for body and mind healing.

Whether it is sprained muscles, broken bones or even dislocated joints, these doctor’ are famous for being top-notch healers. Mangihilots also understand the body so well they know energy points that hand the entire human being wellness beyond the natural experience.

3. It involves invoking the supernatural

It is often said, doctors treat, but God heals. This is the particular mindset that Mangihilots employ in their healing. First-hand accounts of hilot healing express a process that is deeply spiritual. At the beginning of the treatment, the diagnosis is often done with the help of divine entities as well as energy from the environment.

It is often vital for the patient to be a believer for the manghihilot to evoke self-healing energy from the patient. The combination of the divinities and the energy provided by nature as well as within the body enables both the client and the healer to understand and manage the particular condition at hand.

4. The art is hereditary

As mentioned earlier, being a manghihilot involves years of apprenticeship. Before being accepted as a healer, one has to undergo a lot of training from the preceding manghihilot.

The art is therefore passed through lineages and generations within a particular family. Once a child is identified as a prospective manghihilot, they are introduced to the art of healing at a tender age and live their entire lives around fellow healers.

When they are old enough and have gathered enough experience, they are allowed to start practising. Usually, one was regarded as ready to begin practising after advancing well in age

Modern-day manghihilots are however trained individuals who often work in spas and hospitals. They, therefore, don’t have to be old as they are medically trained in schools. This has however not reduced the demand for the manghihilots who have mastered the art the old school way.

5. Mangihilots often work with herbalists (albularyo)

More often than not, manghihilots involve other professional herbalists known as albularyo. The effectiveness of the healing process will only be enhanced by the herbal equivalents of modern-day medicine.

So as the manghihilots diagnosed and treated the ailments of their clients, the albularyo tagged along and handled the herbal aspect of the healing. It is vital to note that it is virtually impossible to be both a manghihilot and an albularyo. Both forms of art involve many years of apprenticeship and training. Their co-relation is often thus very vital to ensure that the client is fine in all aspects.

6. The healing process involves a lot of earth elements

This healing process is often so much more than just a massage. The whole process consists of a lot of natural attributes.

For starters, during the process leaves of different plants as well as special soil and other earthly elements are used. The mangihilots often attribute the entire process to nature. Therefore they involve a lot of natural products in the whole process. Banana leaves, dagdagay sticks (traced back hundreds of years) and volcanic soil is often used in the process for different reasons.

These elements were used many years ago but are still used even in modern day hilot treatment. Banana leaves, for instance, is often leased with coconut oil then run over the body to clear energy blockages. Also, it is a natural ionizer and has an antiseptic effect that treats maladies such as fevers.

Whether it is mild ailments such as fever, cold or even stress, or it is more severe ailments such as broken bones or dislocated joints, hilot is often a way of healing your body and mind.

With the proven therapy that involves wellness over a period of time, hilot is a form of treatment everyone should try once in a while. It will give you an experience of a lifetime and healing that might actually addict you.

It is a fact that healing does occur through hilot treatment. Many superstitions are tied to this particular form of healing. Some people think that it is just modern day medicine that was ahead of its time, others attribute this form of healing to the supernatural.

What do you personally think?

Some would gladly attend this form of healing but others are quite sceptical. But, the question of the year is – is hilot treatment a science or superstition?

 

 

Destination

Why you should visit Cebus Taoist Temple this year

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It’s no secret that architecturally detailed structures seem to hold a particular aesthetic value within communities across the world. In an age where design seems to primarily focus on efficiency and functionality, it seems that the more ornate structures have fallen by the wayside – victims of the inevitable constraints of time and budget.

This reality is what makes the exceptions like Cebus Taoist Temple special. The temple – situated in the Beverly Hills subdivision in Lahug – draws its architectural inspiration from the altars and temples of ancient China. Its grounds have been meticulously designed to reflect Taoist thought and philosophy.

The temple sits high up in the mountainous terrain on the outskirts of Cebu City; the highest point of the temple grounds being some 300m above sea level. The Taoist temple was skilfully constructed by followers of the ancient Chinese philosopher Lao Zi in 1972.

The many different Layers of the grounds reflect the harmony between humans and nature pursued by Taoists. The grounds conform to the pre-existing contours of the land all woven together by the many different stairways.

The primary staircase being comprised of 81 stairs; this is representative of the 81 chapters found in the Taoist scriptures – Lao Zi’s the Tao Te Ching (Dao De Jing).

The Rituals of Cebus Taoist Temple (What to see at the Temple)

Burning Joss sticks (a form of incense) regardless of any particular sect is an essential element of Taoism. The burning of the Joss stick symbolises the release of your non-physical energy; as represented by the smoke leaving the Joss stick.

Taoists believe that this practice should be carried out regularly as a form of sacrifice; they are releasing and in a way investing their energy into the altar. Devotees attend Cebus Taoist Temple on Wednesdays and Sundays to regularly take part in the practice. They will then have their fortunes read (算命, suanming) by one of the temple’s monks; this is a routine part of Chinese culture.

Unlike the neighbouring Phu Sian Temple, Cebus Taoist temple is open to both worshippers, and non-worshippers from 8 am – 5 pm daily. As you approach the temple, you’ll begin to appreciate the attention to detail involved in the construction of the temple.

You will quickly notice the familiar battlements lining the entrance to the temple. This is part of the temples replica of the Great Wall of China. The temples structures and walkways are then surrounded by beautiful, well-maintained gardens featuring a wishing well, the old bell, a fish pond and a giant green dragon.

It is common for visitors to stroll around the temple enjoying the serene atmosphere of the space. You can then enjoy the scenic views of Cebu City from the comfort of the temples veranda.



Practicing Taoism at Cebus Taoist Temple

A prominent ritual performed by devotees involves praying to the gods to grant a wish. This ceremony is also available to visitors if the Head or the Temple Attendant is present.

Those partaking are first required to wash their hands as a representation of cleanliness. They will then enter the chapel barefoot to begin the steps to receive an answer to their wishes.

First, the partakers must light a Joss Stick, then kneel down holding the Joss Stick with both hands. They must then pray for enlightenment in regards to your problem or wish.

Partakers then hold a pair of little blocks of wood (jiao-bei 筊杯 ) flat side up with both hands.  The blocks being crescent-moon-shaped and flat on one surface and round on the other.

After a prayer to the gods about your question, wish or problem, the wooden blocks are dropped gently to the floor. The answer to your prayer is found according to the position in which the blocks have landed.

  • Shèngjiǎo (聖筊, divine answer): One block flat and another block round indicates “yes”.
  • Nùjiǎo (怒筊, angry answer) also kūjiao (哭筊, crying answer): Both blocks showing the round surfaces is a  ‘no’ answer.
  • Xiàojiǎo (笑筊, laughing answer): Both blocks flat indicate the gods are laughing at the question, this is either because they think you already know the answer to your question, or the answer is obvious.
  • Lìjiǎo (立筊, standing answer): One or both blocks fall but stand erect on the floor means the gods did not understand your question, you should then repeat the process if this is the case.

Once you have received an answer to your prayer, you must kneel down and express your thanks to God and ask for continued blessings within your life.

7 essential facts to keep in mind before visiting the temple

  1. The majority of locals and tourists visit the temple later in the afternoon, so if you want a peaceful visit, it may pay to arrive a little earlier.
  2. The guards and temple attendants are very strict with the time, so keep in my the temple will close at 5 pm.
  3. This is a Taoist Sanctuary of Prayers and Meditation so please observe silence in the areas marked with signage and follow the rules while you are inside Cebu Taoist Temple.
  4. The temple has a spacious parking area at its base; it may pay off to visit in a private vehicle. The temple is inside the Beverly Hills Subdivision, so it is uncommon to find public transport in the area.
  5. The dress code states sleeveless shirts and short pants aren’t allowed if you wish to enter the main worship temple.
  6. Photos of the temple’s altar are prohibited, these areas are marked with signage.
  7. The temple opening hours are from 8 am to 5 pm, with no entrance fee.

How do I get to Cebus Taoist Temple?

The easiest way for tourists to visit the temple is by taking a taxi. You must ensure the driver knows you need the taxi for a round trip. Finding a taxi to take you home may be difficult as the temple resides in a private subdivision.

If you find yourself without a taxi, you will either have to wait for another dropping off visitors to the temple or walk down the hill to the main road outside of the subdivision.

Another alternative to getting a taxi is using the Grab app. Grab is a ride share app which operates in a similar manner to Uber. Simply enter your current destination and where you want to go, then wait for your car to arrive.

For locals wishing to visit the temple, bringing your own vehicle is ideal as it avoids the complications of finding public transport in the area.

For those wishing to visit the temple on a budget, you must first take a jeepney (either 17B/17C) to JY Square Mall. From there you can find habal-habal drivers who can drop you off at the temple for a small fee.

To emphasise the point – ensure you ask your drivers to wait. The nearest main road in which you can find alternative public transport is a 5 – 10 minute walk away.

Culture

The Love For Christmas In The Philippines

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It amazes me how Christmas celebrations – simply the annual commemoration of the birth of Jesus Christ – can come in so many different forms on the international stage. My first experience of “Pasko Sa Pilipinas” or Christmas in the Philippines opened my eyes to the varying degrees of cultural significance the celebration can take across different nations.

For many Filipinos, the Christmas season is one of the most important times of the year. This is due to approximately 80% of the countries population being Catholic. Christmas has become an integral pillar of the Christian faith of many Filipinos.

The Christmas countdown in the Philippines

Now, when I say Christmas is one of the most important times of the year in the Philippines, I mean it. Often I will find myself walking through a mall and hear Christmas carols playing. This is followed by the realisation that it is only mid-September.

Enthusiasm for Christmas is what the Philippines is known for. It is often quoted as having the worlds most extended Christmas season. Carols can begin as early as September 1, the day Filipinos around the world mark the beginning of the countdown to Christmas. The festive season can then continue as far as the third Sunday of January, the day of the Feast of the Santo Niño.

The official observance of Christmas in The Philippines

The Catholic Church begin their Christmas formalities on December 16. This is the beginning of ‘Simbang Gabi’ or the ‘Misa de Gallo’; these are the early morning masses held on the lead up to Christmas. “Simbang Gabi” literally translates to “NIght Worship”, this is due to Filipinos waking up at four o’clock in the morning to attend mass.

Attending the nine masses leading up to Christmas is seen as quite an accomplishment. Often you will have breakfast together after the mass; often enjoying a warm ginger tea called ‘salabatand’ along with a flat but thick yellow rice cake called ‘bibingka’.

Many Filipinos attend the ‘Simbang Gabi” as a way to build anticipation for December 25ths celebration of the birth of the Christ. It is also a folk belief that if you attend all nine masses, any wish you have may become true.

After the reaching December 25, the Christmas season continues for the Catholic church up until the Feast of the Epiphany, occurring on the first Sunday of the year.

Beautiful lighting displays are seen in business districts and malls around the Philippines during the festive season.

What to expect on Christmas Eve in the Philippines

Celebrating Christmas Eve in the Philippines is so much more than what I had experienced anywhere else. The city had come to life with families out in the city heading to restaurants for their Christmas feasts. Every restaurant I passed by was filled to capacity with long lines of guests waiting for tables.

This hints at the importance of Christmas Eve for Filipinos. Christians will first go to church to attend the final ‘Simbang Gabi’ or the Christmas Eve mass. This is immediately followed by what I was witnessing on the streets of Manila on Christmas Eve – Noche Buena or the midnight feast.

Noche Buena is a grand family dinner and comprised of delicious traditional Filipino food such as lechon, pancit, ham, queso de bola, fruit salad, rice cakes (bibingka and puto bumbong) and a lot more.

When Christmas day arrives

On Christmas day Filipinos will meet together with their relatives. Children will often dress neatly in their best clothes when they go to see their extended family.

When Children meet with older relatives, they ensure they practice ‘mano’ or to bless, which is a show of respect for their elders. When greeting the elder, the children will take the hand of the elder and gently press it to their forehead.

The children then receive gifts of money and toys from their relatives or godparents as a reward.

During this time it is not uncommon to be visited by carolers. Groups visit houses with tambourines and guitars singing Christmas carols to the householder.

Often carolers will use unique handmade instruments such as tambourines made from bottle tops, or drums made from milk cans.

After singing their songs, the householder will often reward the carolers with handfull of coins; this is then followed by the carolers singing words of thanks to the householder.

Schools and business embrace the spirit of Christmas in the Philippines

During Christmas parties schools and offices often enjoy their adaption of Secret Santa called “Monito Monita”. It is the same concept of Secret Santa in which all the participants will receive their anonymous gift. The gift is often purchased according to certain conditions and cost restrictions laid out at the beginning of the event.

These social events hosted by schools and businesses are often held a week before the Christmas holidays. This is usually around the time many private and public companies and agencies issue their bonuses along with other gifts to their employees.

So, although the Philippines doesn’t fit the traditional wintry setting of Christmas, we can see that the tradition is still alive and well in the country.

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